Baveno is a small village on the shores of Lake Maggiore. It sits just along from the most well-known town on the banks of the lake, Stresa. The town has had a long and rich history and ancient remains that have been discovered in the area provide evidence that it was inhabited in pre-historic times and then later by the Romans amongst others.
Baveno held an important strategic location in years gone by, sat as it was between Ossola and the Alps and then later on between Genoa and Venice. This made it an important commercial port. Once upon a time, the area was also famous for its rose granite quarries, a material that was highly prized in the Renaissance period. In the 17th century, many local chapels and religious buildings were constructed using rose granite.
Then, as time went on, Baveno also became an important tourist destination. In 1807, the Strada del Sempione was opened. This connected Paris to Milan for the first time. In 1826, the first steamships then started operating on the lake. With onboard restaurants, this was a stylish way in which to travel and wealthy travellers added Stresa and Baveno to their Grand Tour of Europe. When railways finally connected Lake Maggiore to Switzerland in 1906, tourism flourished even more. These days Baveno is home to approximately 5000 residents.
What to see and do in Baveno
There is plenty to see both in Baveno itself and in the surrounding hamlets of Feriolo, Romanico, Oltrefiume, Loita and Roncaro.
In the very heart of Baveno, one of the things you must take the time to visit is the Romanesque Complesso Monumentale della Chiesa di Baveno. Coming from the lakeside, the complex is reached via a wide step of steps with walls on each side. At the top of this flight of stairs, in the Piazza del Chiesa, you will find the rectory, church, bell tower, octagonal shaped baptistery and the long covered portico of the Via Crucis.
The current church here dates back to 1133, is dedicated to two Roman martyrs – San Gervasio and San Protaso – and is home to a number of incredible frescoes. Interestingly, the church’s origins are actually much more deeply rooted, as evidenced by some Roman inscriptions which were uncovered during a recent restoration of the church. Its bell tower stands at nearly 35 metres tall and dates back to 1075 whilst the adjacent Baptistery is older still. It actually dates as far back as the 5th century but the interior frescoes date back to the 16th century and depict the life of Saint John the Baptist. The open air frescoed arcade – Via Crucis – also lines the piazza and is home to yet more stunning frescoes. All in all, whether you are religious or not, it’s all extremely beautiful and the whole area has a peace and calmness to it.
Incidentally, the tourist information office is located in this area too. If you are a keen walker, then there are plenty of fantastic hiking routes to be enjoyed and the tourist office is the best place to stop to get a map showing some of the trails you can enjoy. For those that prefer to explore on two wheels, there are plenty of trails for mountain bike enthusiasts too.
Also in the same vicinity is the Museo Granum (Granite Museum). This multimedia museum looks at the history of pink granite and its economic importance for Baveno. The museum isn’t large – we’d say you only need between 30 and 60 minutes to do it justice – but it does contain a lot of interesting information. There are displays explaining the different types of granite and showing some of the tools that would once have been used to work with it along with information about how it was and still is used both locally and overseas.
The other thing you should do when in Baveno is to visit one of its villas and gardens. The public park at Villa Fedora is probably the most well known. There is a pretty little park here along with a small beach area and a cafe. Alternatively, there is also a public garden at Villa Mussi in the nearby hamlet of Oltrefiume.
Of course, just off the shore opposite Baveno are the Borromean Islands and no visit to Baveno would be complete without a visit to these three islands – Isola Bella, Isola Madre and Isola Pescatori. The first two are home to historic palaces and exquisite gardens filled with rare plants and numerous species of flowers that flourish in Lake Maggiore’s mild climate. You will also come across white peacocks that strut across the lawns and budgerigars that fly over your heads. In contrast, Isola Pescatori has an altogether different feel from the first two islands. Here, simple houses belonging to local fishermen are a world away from the sumptuous palaces on the other islands.
All three islands are just a short boat ride away. And, of course, it’s worth hiring a boat to get out on the lake irrespective of whether you decide to explore the islands. You get a totally different perspective on the beauty of Baveno from the water. Or you can catch one of the scheduled boats that criss cross the lake all day long and which will take you to Lake Maggiore’s other towns and villages, among them the adjacent town of Stresa.
Where to stay in Baveno
Baveno has plenty of hotels to choose from but one great option is to opt for a self catering apartment in Baveno for your stay. This 2 bedroom Baveno apartment is on the outskirts of Baveno in the small hamlet of Roncaro but is still an easy walk to the lakeside in the centre of the town. Alternatively, for larger groups this luxury villa in Baveno sleeps up to 13 guests comfortable and is within an easy stroll of the town centre.
Or take a look at all the other apartments and villas on Lake Maggiore to rent from Bookings For You.
How to get to Baveno
By train:Â Baveno is just under a two hour journey from Milano Centrale station by train and requires one change in train. From Milan Porta Garibaldi, it’s a 90 minute journey with no need to change train.
By car:Â Take the A8 motorway and leave at the A26 to head towards Gravellona Toce. Exit at Carpugnino and from here, follow the signs for Baveno.
By bus:Â Catch a bus from Lampugnano underground station in central Milan. The journey from here to Baveno takes approximately 80 minutes. Or, if flying into Milan Malpensa, catch the Alibus shuttle. This journey will take about 60 minutes but tickets must be pre-booked.
By taxi:Â A taxi from Milan Malpensa to Baveno will cost around 100-125 euros.