Following on from our last article which summarised the biggest and best events in Italy for the first half of 2023, we’ve moved on to the second half of the year. We can promise you that July to December 2023 proves to be just as busy in Italy! Here are some of the most famous events in Italy for 2023 along with some of our (potentially) less well known favourites which we want to share with you.
July 2023 Events in Italy
Festa della Madonna Bruna, Matera
The Festa di Maria Santissima della Bruna is held in Matera each year. Festivities culminate on 2 July, but you will find celebrations taking places across the whole week. The celebrations are held in honour of the Madonna della Bruna and have been taking place since 1389. These days, the event involves days of celebrations with lights and market stalls filling the streets accompanied by music and processions. The processions start with a parade of shepherds making their way through the town but plenty of other processions follow, the most important being the one that includes the statue of the Madonna and child. The statue is taken to a float made of papier-mâchè which is positioned near the Church of Annuziata and then the procession continues with men on horseback leading the float to Materaâs cathedral where it is carried three times around the square before the statues are placed inside. Spectators may then be surprised to see the float being smashed to pieces by those gathered with everyone desperately trying to grab a piece of of it since doing so will supposedly bring them good luck for the following year. The day culminates with a spectacular fireworks display.
Ancona Jazz Festival
The capital of the Marche region in Italy, Ancona, has hosted a jazz festival each July since 1973, celebrating this wonderful musical genre. The programme (and dates) change annually but what you can be assured of is that Ancona Jazz will always attract an eclectic and talented group of jazz musicians from all over the world who perform in concerts and events over the course of the fortnight. Visitors can buy a card which permits unlimited access to the various concerts, exhibitions and performances held around the city during the festival.
Siena Palio
Arguably Italyâs most famous festival, and certainly one of its oldest, the Siena palio takes place not once but twice a year on both 2 July and 16 August. The palio in July is the Palio of Provenzano, held in honour of the Madonna of Provenzano.
Each palio is a competition between ten of the seventeen contrade in Siena. The contrade are wards of Siena. Every resident of Siena will belong to a contrada. Originally, there would actually have been 59 of them. These days there are seventeen – Eagle, Snail, Wave, Panther, Forest, Tortoise, Owl, Unicorn, Shell, Tower, Ram, Caterpillar, Dragon, Giraffe, Porcupine, She-Wolf and the Goose – but only ten actually compete in the palio. Seven of these take part by right and the remaining three get their place if they were lucky enough to be drawn via lot (tratta). Interestingly, each jockey only knows which horse he will be riding four days prior when these lots are drawn.
The palio kicks off with a grand pageant – the Corteo Storico. This is a spectacular parade of flag wavers dressed head to toe in medieval costumes. Each flag shows the unique emblem and colours of the contrada it represents. Incidentally, the flags of the contrade will be displayed on buildings throughout Siena so you’ll always know which contrada you’re in.
The event itself involves the ten horsemen riding bareback around the Piazza del Campo. The winner is the first to cross the finishing line after racing around the track three times. They are competing to win the coveted drapellone (large drape) which is a large, unique painted silk canvas, designed by a different artist each year. The winning contrada will go on to display the drappellone in its museum as part of the celebrations.
Quintana, Ascoli Piceno
The palio in Siena is just one of several palios taking place in July and August. Head to Ascoli Piceno on the second Saturday in July (or on the first Sunday in August) to witness the Quintana, a Medieval jousting tournament that is one of the oldest in Italy. Just like in Siena, events are kicked off with a grand procession before the incredible spectacle of the jousting tournament begins. The different Sestieri of the city fight each other to win the palio. Just as in Siena, every Sestiere has its own colour, coat of arms and its own knight and the horse race is preceded and followed by other events, such as the historical parade and the flag wavers palio. Packed stands filled with spectators cheer on their favourite champion, each representing their specific neighbourhood.
Stresa Music Festival
For six weeks from mid July, a series of concerts takes place in and around the popular lakeside town of Stresa on the banks of Lake Maggiore.
It has been running annually since 1961 and is now renowned as one of the leading classical music festivals anywhere in Europe.
LâArdia di San Costantino, Sardinia
This is one of Sardiniaâs biggest festivals, held in the village of Sedilo in the north of the island. The festival dates back hundreds of years old and celebrates St Constantine who became a Roman co-emperor in 306AD. So the story goes, Constantineâs brother in law, Maxentius, declared war on him but Constantine successfully defeated him at the Battle of the Milvian Bridge in 312AD. During the festival, the battle is re-created via a horse race in the Sancturio di San Constantino. Two riders are appropriately dressed to represent the Roman brothers whilst an army of others are dressed to represent their armies.
August 2023 Events in Italy
Ferragosto
The modern bank holiday – Ferragosto – dates back to the time of Mussolini who declared the 15th August a bank holiday in his attempts to give Italy a national identity. These days it marks the unofficial start of Italyâs summer holiday season and many businesses will choose to just shut down from this date until the beginning of September. There are fireworks displays marking the evening celebrations in towns and cities across Italy.
Castrum Sarnani
One of our favourite festivals in the run up to Ferragosto is in Sarnano, Le Marche. Here, on the days preceding the 15th August, the town is transformed into a wonderful Medieval scene. Cross through the entrance gates and youâll need to exchange your money for the Medieval currency â the Sarnano denari â so that you can make purchases from the ancient traders whose stalls line the streets of the town. These include the cartographer, carpenter, astronomer, blacksmith, architect, falconer, stonecutter, herbalist and much more. All are ready to offer you their humble services in exchange for the right amount of money. Wherever you roam, youâll stumble across fire eaters, sword fighters, archers, jugglers, belly dancers, fortune tellers, minstrels and artists, whilst in the piazzas and bars, youâll be able to enjoy some wonderful theatrical and musical performances.
Rossini Opera Festival
This annual festival is a celebration of Rossiniâs music. It is held each August in the coastal town of Pesaro in Le Marche which was the birthplace of Gioacchino Rossini. During the festival, operas are performed both in the smaller historical Teatro Rossini as well as at the modern Adriatic Arena which can seat up to 11,000 people.
Macerata Opera festival
There is certainly music for all tastes in Marche across the Summer months. Macerata is famous for its incredible opera house â the Sferisterio â which is one of the most prestigious and acclaimed open air theatres in Italy. It provides a wonderful setting to watch some hugely talented opera singers perform. The Macerata opera festival is an annual three week event at the open air theatre. Over the years, the festival has welcomed some of the worldâs best performers including Luciano Pavarotti, Montserrat CaballĂŠ and Placido Domingo. Each year the festival has a different theme and the performances will all revolve around this theme.Â
Summer Jamboree
The Summer Jamboree in Senigalia is one of our favourite music festivals in Le Marche. It celebrates American music and culture of the 1940s and 1950s, there are dozens of free concerts to enjoy along with a vintage market every evening selling 40s and 50s memorabilia and delicious street food. Events during the festival also include a vintage car parade and much more.
Siena Palio
Round two of the Siena palio takes place on 16 August each year. This time it is the Palio of the Assumption, held in honour of the Virgin Mary’s Assumption. Events mirror those in July.
Ravello Festival
The Ravello Festival is an annual music festival held in Ravello and a number of other towns and villages along the Amalfi Coast.
Also widely known as the Wagner Festival, the event has taken place every year since 1953. It began as a celebration of the visit by the German composer Richard Wagner to Ravello in 1880 and was actually a way for the town to boost tourism to the town. Much of the original emphasis of the festival was on Wagner’s music but these days it’s a two month long festival featuring a wide range of music performances from large orchestras to small chamber groups and jazz quartets.
Venice Film Festival
The Venice Film Festival has come to be one of the most prestigious events in the film industry calendar. Held annually, it runs from the end of August and across the first week of September. It is held on the Venice lido and promotes and raises awareness of all aspects of international cinema.
September 2023 Events in Italy
Regata Storica, Venice
Traditionally held on the first Sunday in September (so on 3 September in 2023), the Venice Regatta (Regata Storica) takes place on the city’s Grand Canal. It is one of the oldest events that takes place in Venice, dating back to the late 13th century. Events start with a ceremonial parade during which a fleet of historical boats manned by Venetians dressed in historical costumes make their way along the Grand Canal. This includes the bisonni (eight oared gondolas), the balotine (six oared gondolas) along with the ceremonial and highly decorated gondolas of the various rowing clubs within Venice. Then the competitive event begins. There are various regattas including ones for youngsters, one for women as well as a mens race. The starting point is in front of the public gardens in the Castello Sestiere. A rope – spagheto – stretches across the water to mark the starting area. Boats must then make their way from here around a pole in the centre of the Grand Canal in front of the Church of Sant’ Andrea de la Zirada back to the finishing line indicated by the Machina. The latter is erected on a beautifully painted wooden raft and is where the prize giving ceremony is also held.
Once the various races have been completed, the canals of Venice are filled with boats of all shapes of sizes, filled with Venetians celebrating, whilst on dry land there are numerous street performers and artists to provide plenty of entertainment.
Festa della Rificolona, Florence
This is the annual Festival of the Paper Lanterns and will be held on . The event has its roots in Christian tradition which states that the Virgin Mary was born on 8 September. These days the event and celebrations are much smaller than they would have been historically when the day would have attracted hundreds of farmers and rural labourers into the city to pay their respects. Since they travelled at night to make it to the services in time, they would carry lanterns with them. And this tradition still continues today. During the Festa della Rificolona, on the eve of 8 September, Florentines will carry paper lanterns on the end of a stick as they make their way from the Piazza Santa Felicita to the Piazza Santissima Annunziata. And a huge market is held in the square on the 6 and 7 September reflecting the way farmers would once have brought their produce into the city with them to sell.
Luminara di Santa Croce, Lucca
On 13 September each year, the electric lights in Lucca are switched off and instead the town is lit up with thousands of candles to mark the Luminara di Santa Croce, an important religious festival. The festival celebrates the legendary Volto Santo crucifix. This is a wooden carving of Jesus Christ which stands over two metres tall and which was supposedly sculpted by Nicodemus who assisted Saint Joseph in placing Christ in the tomb after his crucifixion. It is believed that the crucifix came from Palestine to Lucca in AD 782 and it is kept in the Cathedral of San Martino in Lucca. So legend has it, Nicodemus didn’t actually finish carving the face but it miraculously appeared whilst he was sleeping. He then hid the crucifix in a cave in Lebanon where it remained hidden for centuries.
At approximately 8 pm on 13 September, a procession starting at the Church of San Frediano in Lucca makes its way to the Cathedral of San Martino with a banner portraying the Volto Santo crucifix at its head. Priests dressed in white robes lead the way and sing prayers whilst a band providing accompanying music and residents come adorned in historic costumes. At 11.30, fireworks provide the perfect finale to events.
Couscous Fest
Held in San Vito lo Capo every September since 1998, the Couscous Festival celebrates the Arab influences on Sicilian cuisine and now attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors. Chefs from all over the world will come to participate and to try to re-create the best version of this ancient Arabian delicacy. That said, couscous isnât the only foodstuff celebrated but itâs definitely the hero of the show! During the event there will be cooking shows, wine tasting, tastings, talks, music performances and much more. In 2023, the event will take place from 15-24 September.
La Festa di San Gennaro, Naples
September 19th marks the Feast of Saint Gennaro. San Gennaro was the Bishop of Benevento. He was persecuted for his Christian beliefs before being beheaded in 305 AD. The saint’s relics (including two sealed vials of his blood) are kept in the Duomo in Naples.
On the morning of 19th September, thousands of Neopolitans flock to the Piazza del Duomo in Naples hoping to see the saints blood liquefy in what is known as the Miracle of San Gennaro. The Cardinal removes the vials of blood from the chapel in which they are housed and processes with them and a bust of the saint to the cathedral altar. Here, spectators hold their breath to see if the blood liquefies (which it usually does). If it doesn’t then it is considered a bad omen. The church bells are then rung and the liquified blood is taken out to the masses in the square for them to see it. It’s then left on display in the cathedral for the next eight days. Of course, as you’d expect there are plenty of other events that make up the festival include a religious procession through the streets. Incidentally, the miracle of San Gennaro’s blood is also performed on 16 December and on the Saturday before the first Sunday in May.
Milan Fashion week
Milan Fashion week is held semi annually in Milan. The Autumn and Winter collections are presented in January and February and the Spring and Summer collections in September and October. Designer brands will put on cat-walk shows in some of the most beautiful spots throughout the city. Whilst access to the shows is extremely limited and only open to a select few, many of them will be live-streamed and available to view on a big screen in one of Milan’s main squares. And even if you can’t attend the events themselves, the city has a real atmosphere and buzz to it during the Fashion Week. In 2023, Milan Fashion Week takes place from 21 to 27 February and from 19 to 25 September.
October 2023 Events in Italy
Autumn is the time for a whole plethora of food festivals to take place in Italy., celebrating the bountiful harvest that nature provides at this time of year. These include chestnut festivals, mushroom festivals, olive oil festivals and much more. It would be impossible to list them all but we’ve included a taste of some of the most famous chestnut festivals to give you a flavour for the sorts of food events you will find in Italy at this time.
Chestnut Festivals
Across September but predominantly in October, there are a number of festivals that celebrate the chestnut harvest in Italy. Most of these take place north of Rome and many are centred in Tuscany. Here, some of the most well known include that in Monticello Amiata which is held from the Friday until the Sunday in the second weekend in October. This three day festival – Festa della Castagna – celebrates everything about the humble chestnut! Large pans (tegliate) are positioned throughout the town in which chestnuts are roasted.
Alternatively, one of the longest celebrations of the chestnut takes place in Marradi at the Sagra delle Castagne. Here, events take place in the town every weekend in October. Food stalls sell a selection of delicious creations all made using chestnuts including jams and marmalades, pasta (tortelli di marroni) cakes and puddings (torta di marroni and il castagnaccio).
In Caprese Michelangelo across the 3rd and 4th weekends of October, there is another famous Festa della Castagna. Caprese Michelangelo is home to some of Tuscanyâs most delicious chestnuts. The trees here were originally planted in Medieval times by monks and for centuries the chestnut harvest played a vital role in staving off starvation for the towns inhabitants through the Winter months.
Other festivals that revolve around the chestnut include Castagnata dâAutunno in Bagno Vignoni at the end of October, the Palaia chestnut festival on the last Sunday in October and the Bacchereto chestnut festival. Also of note is the Piancastagnaio chestnut festival and the two day Castagnalandia festival that takes place annually in Castelnuovo Val di Cecina on the third weekend of October. And last but not least there is the Festa del Marrone in Campiglia dâOrcia where the streets are filled with colour and the chestnut is again celebrated in its many forms.
International White Truffle Fair, Alba
This annual truffle fair is renowned across the world and takes place every weekend between October and December each year. It celebrates the tuber magnatum Pico and there is no better time to sample and buy the famous white truffle that are found in the woods around Langhe Roero and Monferrato. The fair includes historical reenactments and events as well as cookery demonstrations, tastings, sales and more.
Acqualagna White Truffle Fair
Alba isn’t the only town to host a truffle fair. Down in Le Marche, the week-long White Truffle Fair takes place in Acqualagna every October or November. Again, it attracts truffle buyers from around the world, keen to get their hands on this prized delicacy. Nearly two thirds of Italyâs national truffle production comes from Acqualagna and visitors to the fair will find stalls filling the main square. Tastings, cooking competitions and exhibitions run across the 7 days and there are plenty of opportunities to buy truffles and other local food specialities.
Eurochocolate
For those with a sweeter tooth, Perugia hosts more than a week-long celebration of chocolate in Perugia, Umbria each October. Perugia is well known for its chocolates, thanks to being the HQ for the Perugina company whose Baci chocolates are (according to their website at least!) the most popular brand consumed in Italy. Eurochocolate will take place from 13-22 October 2023 and is estimated to attract nearly a million visitors to the city. (Incidentally, the event now also takes place in the Spring (24 March – 2 April 2023).
Pistachio Festival
Held every October in the town of Bronte near Mount Etna, this Italian sagra celebrates the humble pistachio which grows on the fertile slopes of the volcano. A variety of pistachio inspired dishes are on hand for visitors to sample during the Sagra del Pistacchio.
Sagra del Tordo, Montalcino
The Sagra del Tordo in Montalcino has taken place on the last Sunday of October ever since 1958. Translated literally as the âsong thrush festivalâ reflecting the age old tradition of hunting in this area due to bird migration, it involves participants from each of the four districts of Montalcino competing in an archery competition.
The town crier announces the start of events by releasing a number of thrushes whilst hundreds of residents will also add to the atmosphere by dressing up in Medieval costumes and parading through the streets.
Halloween
Whilst Halloween isnât a recognised holiday in Italy, the influence of traditional American Halloween customs are beginning to creep in. However, for many Italians, this is much more a time to remember loved ones and visit their graves. It’s more common for Italians to celebrate not on 31 October but on the following day – All Saintsâ Day – on 1 November. S
November 2023 Events in Italy
All Saints’ Day
November 1 is All Saints’ Day and is both a religious and public holiday. Known as Tutti i Santi or La festa di Ognissanti, this is the day after Halloween and celebrates and remembers all those who have entered heaven.
Festival dei Popoli, Florence
Founded in 1959, the Festival dei Popoli is a renowned annual film festival that takes place in Florence. It is also the oldest film festival in Europe dedicated to documentary cinema. It’s a week long event which includes a number of screenings throughout the city. Dates for 2023 are yet to be confirmed but it’s likely to take place between 4 and 12 November.
Feast of Our Lady of Good Health, Venice
November 21st marks the Feast of Our Lady of Good Health in Venice. This is an important religious festival in the city and has been celebrated since 1631. The roots of the festival go back to Medieval times. In 1630 and 1631, swathes of northern Italy were hit by a wave of the plague. In Venice, 47,000 people died. Not knowing what to do, in the height of the epidemic, the government here organised a procession of prayer to the Virgin Mary which lasted 3 days and nights. The Doge also made a pledge that, should Venice survive the plague, he would build a temple as a sign of gratitude and thanks. As it turned out, shortly after the procession, the epidemic died out and so, to give their thanks to Mary, the great Basilica in the Dogana da Mar district began. The building was finally completed in 1687. These days, the city still give thanks to the Virgin Mary on 21 November and hourly masses are held in the Basilica of Saint Mary of Health. To make it easier for worshippers to attend, a temporary iron and wooden bridge – the votive bridge – is always erected on the Grand Canal a few days before the Feast.
Feast of Santa Lucia, Siracusa
The Festivities in Syracuse to mark Santa Lucia (Saint Lucy) kick off on 30 November but festivities actually continue for a period of 3 weeks until 20 December. On the 30 November, there is a parade through the streets of the town. On 9 December, the silver simulacrum of Santa Lucia is displayed in the chapel dedicated to her within the cathedral. On the 13th, there is then a procession carrying her relics and the silver simulacrum from here to the Basilica of Santa Lucia al Sepolcro. It is escorted by twelve cilii (large wooden candelabras) and is followed close behind by the Senate Carriage. The procession lasts a number of hours and is a deeply solemn event with pilgrims shouting Siracusana jè! as the procession passes. Many walk barefoot as a sign of their thanks. Bells are rung to announce its arrival at the church.
Over the next eight days, crowds will visit the Saint and the Martyr’s tomb in the Basilica where the relics are displayed before they are returned to the Cathedral on 20 December. On this day, there is another long procession as the Saint makes her way back, via the Basilica Sanctuario della Madonna delle Lacrime and the Umberto I Hospital as well as via a stop at the Ponte Umbertino where fireworks greets the Saint’s return.
December 2023 Events in Italy
Feast of the Immaculate Conception
December 8th marks the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, a public holiday when most people get to enjoy a day off. It’s also the official start of the Christmas period for Italians and many Italians will mark the occasion by putting up their Christmas decorations.
The day is an important day in the Roman Catholic church and marks the day when Mary herself was conceived. Whilst Catholics believe that her mother Saint Anne fell pregnant in the usual biological way, they also believe that the conception was immaculate because it involved the intervention of God who absolved Mary of sin. Masses are held throughout the country and in Rome, the Pope lays a wreath at the base of the Colonna della Immacolata statue in the Piazza Mignanelli whilst a representative from the Italian fire service will place a floral wreath on the arm of the statue. Elsewhere in Italy, you will find a number of towns celebrating with parades, music and entertainment. In Puglia and Abruzzo, the day is marked with bonfires whilst the city of Naples lights up for the festivities with beautiful illuminations in the Rione Sanita district in particular, and with the traditional fairs of San Biagio dei Librai and San Gregorio Armeno.
Christmas Markets
December is the month when Italian Christmas markets fill many of the piazzas in Italy’s main towns and cities.
However, Italy’s smaller towns and villages don’t like to be outdone and many of these also hold Christmas markets across the festive season. Some of the biggest are in the Piazza Navona n Rome, at Oh Bej! Oh Bej! in Milan which celebrates the city’s patron saint, Saint Ambrose. Many markets will give you the chance to meet Babbo Natale (Father Christmas) in his workshop.
Candles in Candelara
As the year draws to a close, there are also a number of non religious festivals which revolve around Christmas. Our favourite of these is in the Marche region of Italy and is called Candles in Candelara. Here, the street lights are completely switched off and instead, the village is beautifully lit by thousands of candles, providing the most idyllic backdrop as you wander around the wooden market where you will find stalls selling Christmas gifts and handicrafts. Plenty of traditional dishes are on offer to sample too including polenta with mushrooms, salted codfish, piadina, fried olives and roasted chestnuts, all to be washed down with the new wine of the season. In the background, traditional music will be played by bagpipe players, all adding to the festive atmosphere.
Live Nativity Scenes
Mention must also be made of the live nativity scenes (presepio) that take place across Italy. The first ever living nativity was staged by Francis of Assisi in the early 13th century in the village of Greccio. In the following two centuries, the setting up of live nativity scenes spread to towns and villages across Europe. In Italy, the tradition still remains strong today.
Our favourite living nativity scenes is in Genga, Le Marche. It takes place on 26 December and 29 December each year. Set in the stunning backdrop of a cave in the beautiful Frasassi Gorge, 300 actors re-create the nativity scene each year making this the largest living nativity in the whole world. All the performers make their way up to the cave, dressed as local craftsmen from blacksmiths to bakers and from carpenters to cobblers. Proceeds from the event all go to charity and good causes.
In Rome, presepi can be found in the Piazza del Popolo, the Piazza Euclide, at Santa Maria in Travestere as well as at Santa Maria d’Aracoeli on the Capitoline Hill.
In northern Tuscany, there is a fantastic living nativity in Equi Terme. Only a few people live here all year round but between 23 and 26 December each year, dozens of people come to re-enact the events of the birth of Jesus in its town centre. And there are also notable living nativity scenes in Greccio, in Custonaci on the South West coast of Sicily, in the Sassi of Matera in the Basilicata region of Italy, in San Bagio near Mantova and in Dogliani in Cuneo.
Christmas Day and St Stephen’s Day
Both 25 and 26 December are public holidays in Italy. This is a time for Italians to spend in the company of family and friends.
Umbria Jazz Winter
The Winter edition of this Umbrian Jazz Festival offers yet another chance for music lovers to enjoy some incredible jazz performances across seven different venues across Orvieto. With over 150 performers taking part across the five days and coinciding as the event does with Capodanno (New Year’s Eve), it’s a really enjoyable event. Since most of the musicians are ‘in residence’ there are also a number of opportunities to listen to the same performer more than once. The main venue for performances is the Teatro Manincelli. However, other venues include the Emilio Greco Museum, the Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo and the Palazzo dei Sette among others. Here, jam sessions will take place between midnight and the early hours of the morning.
Also at the Palazzo dei Sette, for those who want to stay up late, there is nothing better than the jam sessions which have been one of the most identifiable rituals of jazz since its origins, starting around midnight with the house band and continuing fthrough to the early hours. Finally, jazz lunch and jazz dinner at the Ristorante San Francesco. As always, the Funk Off band parades through the streets of the CittĂ della Rupe. In this case, the location is the city itself.