Foligno is the third largest town in Umbria behind Perugia and Terni. It lies on the banks of the River Topino. Unlike so many of the towns in Umbria which are perched atop hills, Foligno, in contrast, was built on the region’s flat plains. It’s also much more modern than most of the neighbouring towns and villages. This is due to extensive bombing during the Second World War which sadly destroyed many of its buildings. More recently, it was also badly affected by the 1997 earthquake when the town’s Torre Communale dramatically collapsed.
However, all that being said, we think that Foligno is very much a town where holidaymakers can enjoy a slice of authentic Italian life. It may not have the character of history of some of the other towns in Umbria, but it’s still well worth a visit and is a great base from which to explore Umbria as a whole.
What to see and do in Foligno
A good starting point for any visit to Foligno is the beautiful Piazza de Repubblica. The square’s design is typical of the 12th and 13th centuries. It’s home to the Palazzo Comunale (Town Hall) and the adjacent Palazzo Orfini. Incidentally, the renowned goldsmith and die engraver Emiliano Orfini is supposed to have opened one of Italy’s earliest printing shops here which in 1472 produced Dante’s Divine Comedy, the first book to ever be printed in the Italian language.
Other palaces in Foligno include the Palazzo Pretorio and the Palazzo Trinci. The latter is home to the Museo Archeologico and some incredible 15th century frescoes. It’s also home to the Pinoteca Comunale (public art gallery) and has a very interesting display dedicated to jousting and to Foligno’s most famous annual event – the Quintana.
Also in Foligno’s main square is the 12th century pink and white stone Cathedral of San Feliciano. The cathedral is dedicated to the patron saint of Foligno – San Feliciano – who was buried here in 251 AD. Rather unusually, the Duomo boasts not just one but two facades, the other facing the adjacent Piazza Duomo. At the time of writing, the cathedral remains closed to visitors due to damage caused by the earthquake. But when it is possible to do so, head inside to marvel at the ornate canopy that covers the altar (baldachin) and which is a 17th century copy of the one found in St Peter’s in Rome.
Before leaving Foligno, we can also highly recommend taking a stroll in its charming park – the Parco dei Canape. Its trees provide some welcome shade from the sun if you’re visiting during the Summer months and it’s a popular place for families with children. Visit on a Tuesday or Saturday morning and you will also find a small market here.
If you have come by car, we also recommend that you take the time to visit the nearby Abbey of Sassovivo. This Benedictine monastery is situated just a few kilometres from Foligno in the direction of Camerino on the slopes of Monte Aguzzo.
The monastery is surrounded by defensive walls which are built around two cloisters. The 13th century cloister on the hill is the one for which the abbey is best known. This rectangular courtyard is surrounded by 128 colonnettes, topped with lily decorations and in turn supporting 58 arches.
Also not far from Foligno is Rasiglia, a small Medieval village 600 metres above sea level which is famous for its springs and canals. Watercourses cross its charming alleyways making it a truly unique place to visit just 20 minutes drive from Foligno itself.
Shopping in Foligno
A visit to Foligno is definitely an opportunity to enjoy a spot of shopping and to buy some souvenirs to take home with you. Umbria has a strong tradition of cashmere manufacturing and Foligno is at the heart of this industry. If you’re looking to find unbeatable value for money, then head to Badiali Cashmere factory outlet at Via Fiamenga 47 on the outskirts of the town, which sells cashmere and woollen clothing for a fraction of the normal prices.
For a more diverse selection of clothing, head to Marina B or Officina 34 Retroscena in the heart of Foligno. The former has a fantastic selection of linen dresses and trousers as well as beautiful scarves, antiques and collectables, ceramics and homeware.
For a new pair of shoes to go with your set of new clothes, head to Duemme Calzature in the centre of Foligno at Corso Camillo Benso Conte di Cavour 116. Mariangela has a great selection of shoes and bags for both men and women from some of Italy’s most famous designers including Prada and Dolce and Gabbana.
Art lovers amongst you should instead head to the shop of Francesca Greco, a talented artist. It’s the perfect place to find a truly unique memento of your time in Umbria, whether that be one of her paintings, books, T shirts, key rings or wooden boxes. Or make an appointment to view the paintings of local artist Luigi Frappi. He is a famous Italian painter and one of the founders of the Nuova Materia Italiana movement of the 1980s and then the Revivalism movement. He creates incredible landscape and still life paintings.
Events in Foligno
Foligno also boasts an action packed calendar of events for holidaymakers to enjoy throughout the year.
The first event in the calendar year is the Carnevale dei Ragazzi held during the last three Sundays before Shrove Tuesday or Mardi Gras. On each of these weekends, elaborately decorated floats will parade through the streets of Foligno.
However, the most famous of the events in Foligno is, without doubt, the Giostra della Quintana. This tournament takes place semi annually on a Saturday night in June with a counter challenge taking place on the second or third Sunday in September. On both occasions, knights on horseback compete through jousting tournaments during which horsemen from each of the ten city wards compete to spear their lances through an ever decreasing ring. Events are preceded by parades where local residents dress in full Medieval attire and are followed by much celebrating.
The town also holds an annual jazz festival in June – Young Jazz – as well as a celebration of one of Italy’s most famous foodstuffs – pasta – each Autumn. Aptly named the ‘First Courses of Italy’ each September and October top chefs, food critics and manufacturers from all over Italy converge on the city to celebrate Italy’s most famous foodstuff – pasta!
Restaurants in Foligno
Foligno boasts some excellent places to eat. Some of our favourites include:
Umami: Popular with youngsters, Umami is a great place for a quick bite to eat, serving up a selection of panini along with a host of delicious sweet treats.
Cucinaa: Open daily from 8 am to 9 pm (but closed on Sunday evenings), Cucinaa is a cross between an upmarket food shop and restaurant. It’s situated just outside but within walking distance of the main historic centre of Foligno. Wedged in a parade of shops, it doesn’t look anything special, but we love the concept behind it. This concept was actually the brainchild of three prestigious Italian masterchefs and is a simple one – it’s basically a luxury takeaway. It’s a great option for both breakfast and lunch and, if you don’t fancy cooking in the evening, then you can buy something to enjoy back at your Umbria villa rental.
Pescheria Mariani: A typically Italian fish restaurant in Foligno.
Villa Roncalli: Owned by the incredibly talented chef, Luisa, this restaurant is situated in the hotel of the same name. Luisa uses the wonderful produce grown in her vegetable garden to create a host of exquisite culinary dishes.
For restaurant options in the towns and villages surrounding Foligno, check out our Umbria restaurants guide.
Where to stay in Foligno
This 2 bedroom apartment in Foligno is just outside the town and offers the best of both worlds – a quiet rural base but just a short drive from the hustle and bustle of Foligno.
Spello is just a 10 minute drive from Foligno and is another great base from which to explore Foligno and all that it has to offer. La Casetta is a stunning two bedroom villa in Spello with an enchanting garden and stunning views over the rolling hills of Umbria. Electric bikes are available to hire just a short stroll away and from here, it’s an easy cycle to the historic heart of Foligno.
How to get to Foligno
By air: The nearest airport is in Perugia, less than 30 km away. Otherwise, it’s approximately 190 km to either Rome or Florence airports.
By train: There is a railway station in Foligno at the Piazzale Unità d’Italia on the eastern perimeter of the town. It is situated approximately 5 minutes walk from the historic centre.
By bus: The nearest bus station to Foligno is a 4 minute walk from the town’s historic centre.
By car: Much of the historic centre of Foligno is a Limited Traffic Zone (ZTL). Cars that enter this area during operational hours without a permit will receive a hefty fine. There are a number of car parks outside this area but probably the easiest to navigate to is the large one at the train station. From here, it’s an easy walk to the historic centre of Foligno.